In 1892, near what would become Glacier National Park, John E. McCarthy, an Irish immigrant, found 80 acres he thought perfect for a farm. He applied for a homestead – actually, half a homestead; he could have had 160, but the surrounding property was taken – and received the patent, signed by President Grover Cleveland's stamp. Though small, it has spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, but we were guided there, not for its scenery, but for the well-preserved buildings.

John raised grain and horses but waited until 1903 to build his home, which is a short distance from the sch...